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s
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r
Ahh, show us some things you are making when you can. I heard those are very cool. I watched a video where I guy made a new Nintendo switch console for a GPU mode he came up with.
s
Can you make your own Thin Clients? 🙂
n
There's a Raspberry Pi case build, so probably, lol
Keep in mind that I started just printing shit out without fine tuning anything, or even really understanding. One of my first builds was the helmet from my spartan in Halo Infinite:
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k
Oh welcome to that rabbit hole, I started with a prusa Mini+
n
Print quality suffered, and I didn't realize how much of a PITA it was to paint glossy PLA. I'll print it again to give it another go.
k
My default now is a X1C and my latest order of 22kgs of Sunlu filament arrived earlier today
n
Nice, I got a Voxelab Aquila X2, which is basically an Ender 3v2 clone.
I do wish I did a little more research and got a unit with an automatic bed leveler. That process is fucking awful and I hate it.
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l
I've gone through about 6 or so printers over the years. Got a prusa MK3s sitting in a closet collecting dust ever since I got the X1 Carbon.
k
Some of my work ;-)
IMG_6433.MOV
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@Landon Winburn AMS as well? My X1C with a single AMS unit has been rock solid
l
Yep, with the AMS. I added it on after and didn't know how much I would appreciate single color prints and not having to change filaments.
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I will say though, having a printer is fun but making functional parts to fix issues around the house is the most rewarding thing.
n
I haven't gotten there yet. I made my daughter some dumb Roblox character, and she used her 3D pen to attach the pieces together, which turned out well. She wants to sell stuff to her friends, lol.
l
We had a christmas tree that was a metal pole with lights draped down and the stand broke. Just a little CAD time and a quick print fixed the issue.
n
Going out on a limb here to say that I'll probably get hooked and upgrade to a printer that has more features like the auto leveling bed, and preferably a dual head extruder.
Man, that's one area that has driven me nuts - CAD programs. I tried a few and hated them.
l
Check out Teching Tech on Youtube. His onshape tutorials are awesome!
k
Tinkercad 🤷🏻‍♂️
l
HA, tinkercad is an artform.
s
ok. I'm leaving this thread. I'm trying to save money this year!
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n
I am literally calibrating my printer using Teaching Tech right now. On the acceleration print.
k
Well @Spencer Sun, it’s fair to say I failed there
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n
One thing I noticed is that OrcaSlicer produces better prints out of the box than VoxelMaker, which I thought was surprising.
You know what I just realized? I can use that IGEL thin client that I have to add wireless to this printer using OctoPrint. I guess I know what today's side project is going to be.
s
Do I see a new Etsy shop opening up?
n
Nah, but you may see me throw this thing across the room. I hate Pi OS.
s
lol. i'm right there with you. I recently put up a SmartScreen in my kitchen, based on MagicMirror. Most people run it on a PI, but I went with a mini PV ($99) running Win11
n
No amount of convincing will change my mind that being unable to change the wireless network the device is on without some random console GUI or odd *nix command is an incomprehensibly awful standard.
And god forbid the guys at OctoPrint provide decent instructions for changing it that actually work. Had to Google until I found sudo raspi-config, which did work.
l
I've got a Tevo Tornado I need to get to working again. My buddy has a gaggle of upgrades he's recommended to do. My biggest frustration is I spend more time working ON the printer or printing things FOR the printer, than using it as a tool for other things. My favorite thing so far has been new badges for my car seats. I put M3 seats in my 335 (can't have it saying M when it's not!) so I printed my own inserts, sandwiched EL tape in between and then covered with epoxy resin and polished. The most fun was designing the part, as I'm absolutely not artistic. I printed them in PLA which doesn't like the heat of the summer so they started to bow a bit - need to redo them in ABS once I get the printer humming.
n
They look good. What did you use to design the part? That's my biggest hangup with CAD. I haven't found anything that's relatively straightforward.
l
I used FreeCAD. Found some decent youtube tutorials and it was easy enough that it made sense to me. Build shape, make it the right size, cut hole in shape, stack new shape on top of existing shape, etc. Definitely not perfect and I'm not "good" by any means, but it was fun and a good learning experience.
n
Okay, that's what I have installed now, so I guess I just have to put more time into tutorials and such.
l
I highly recommend this series of tutorials. They use On Shape. Everything is cloud hosted so no install or files to worry about. I learned it pretty quick using his tutorials. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGqRUdq5ULsONnjEEPeBxxStEsobDKAtV
n
Man, how am I going to get actual work done now
l
The 4th video is really cool. Take a picture and scale it in the software to size then just trace it. Works so well to replicate needed parts.
Just the other day I needed to level out my grill so I made these feet out of TPU from a picture. Just a quick sketch and 3 extrudes. Quite easy and fit perfectly. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/423590ec77942275c795ec31/w/8b4b5d0f5c679496db3ab02a/e/68f3db3263c23f22d469c3ad
n
I have an account with them, too. Tinkercad looked like it could work, but one weird limitation is the inability to import files larger than 25mb in size.
(if I wanted to modify somebody else's design)
l
Yeah, I still use TinkerCad from time to time if I need to edit an STL file. Its just way more difficult to do something simple like rounding a corner. That takes 2 shapes and a hole where its just a click on On Shape.
n
I just created a rounded box with a hole in the center, so I guess I'll pay myself on the back.
Tool holder tutorial complete. I'm proud of this.
r
Make me a nintendo one lol
n
I'm actually going to modify that tool holder above to mount next to my printer, along with some sort of Raspberry Pi camera mount.
@Landon Winburn: In your one screenshot, is that an actual photo of the part with a ruler next to it? I just saw a screenshot in another video where somebody did that. Is that some sort of technique?
Man, should have known there was a Teaching Tech video on just this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noYuQlQN8pw▾

l
Thats the one!
This was my photo and sketch.
n
Super helpful feature. I thought I'd be able to edit an STL file on onshape, but apparently all you can do there is add onto the existing stuff, which isn't ideal. I was going to build my own Pi camera holder for the Y axis, but I found one that will suit my needs, so I'll roll with that. Gonna build an oddball tool tray like above, but with a mount for my RX420 Pi device, too.
You have created a monster.
l
lol, yeah, STLs are the only reason I still use TinkerCad. Simply use it to cut parts or paste two STLs together.
n
You can edit them in Tinkercad? I imported this, but don't have the same options as I would using an object in the app
l
You would want a STEP file for a CAD program like OnShape. STLs are mesh files built with triangles.
You can find alot of them on GrabCAD.
n
So that begs the question, is there a site where people share that?
l
GrabCAD
Teaching Tech has a tutorial where he imports an STL and then builds a new work plane using 3 points of a STL file to build out a flat surface on an STL to make a new sketch. Its a PITA but works.
n
Yeah, I just watched that one. I wanted to remove material from the design, unfortunately.
Another great resource, thanks
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Welp, wish me luck.
s
Luck!
n
So today I learned a valuable lesson. If you extrude part of the face of a sketch, add the size of that extrusion to the face. The opening that fits over the edge of the stand was 4mm too small. 9 hours of printing down the drain, and I used up the last of my black PLA. 😄
@Landon Winburn: Do you have to accommodate for filament when creating specific holes? I created holes for my allen keys, and using the largest as an example, it's diameter is 3.5mm, so I used a 3.8mm hole. The end result was less than 3.5mm in size, so now I'm wondering if I need to go .5mm up for everything, if not more.
I may create a reference print with holes going from 1mm to 50mm to use as a reference for the future. There has to be some sort of variance here, because I didn’t scale the print at all.
l
Yes, always make them bigger. In one of the TT tutorials on making threads he covers this scenario by using the "move face" function or you can simply make the holes larger in the sketch.
You could always simply drill the part out instead of trashing it but where is the fun in over engineering things with that??? 😛
n
Hmm, I'll have to search for that video. I designed a hole guide yesterday and am printing it out tomorrow when the new PLA arrives so that I can see how much shrinkage occurs.
And yeah, I wanted to avoid using the drill if I could.
Okay, so Move Face is nice, but seems like the more complicated solution. Easier to simply address the difference in the initial sketch before extruding.
I'm happy with this design.
l
Nice! The only caveat to doing the sketch is the thread doesn't show its native size (eg 4mm is m4). Doing the move face after saves this value.
n
Those are just plain old holes, not for threads. Sorry, should have been more clear there.
Though now you make me think I need one for threads, too.
l
Then yeah, sketch is way easier. The good thing is using STEP files makes it stupid easy to change if needed.
So when you gonna break down and buy an X1C?
n
lol, I just upgraded to a PEI built plate, so baby steps. I do imagine that I'll eventually upgrade, but the X1C seems a little too much for my random stuff.
There's probably some good middle ground.
I was thinking about the threads thing again. Not really sure it matters right now for designing parts unless I'm building a replacement for something that has a bolt hole. Like, in that tool tray I designed, I also printed 2 10mm bolts that threaded just fine into the tray opening (thanks, ThreadCreator). So, shrinkage would apply to both the bolt and hole, so it shouldn't matter most of the time.
Raspberry Pi camera holder design is done.
j
Very nice chat. It's cool and fun, but time sucking as you say. I've been learning Blender.
n
I'm totally hooked. My wife saw me open an Amazon box with a new digital protractor in it, called me a nerd and walked away. 😂
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Also bought a BLTouch and PEI sheet, so the printer will be upgraded this weekend. I can't stand manually leveling this thing, which is worse with a PEI sheet.
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l
Hopefully you scored a dual sided sheet with a textured side. Once I tried a textured sheet I hardly go back to smooth. Once the parts cool they practically fall off the sheet.
n
Yep, got a double sided. Printed the BLTouch bracket on it, and I swear the breeze from my hand moving towards the part made it lift off the sheet. Crazy.
That said, I have spent 3+ hours between last night and this morning trying to get a firmware that actually works with the BLTouch. Voxelab's BLT firmware is busted, with a menu title missing, and leveling capture doing nothing. MRiscoCProUI's firmware throws low bed temp warnings when the probe hits the bed (and I've tried the latest 3 builds). So I gave Alex's last firmware a shot and it works perfectly. It's old, but I'm going to start calibrating my new ELEGOO PLA with the BLTouch and PEI in a few minutes.
BLTouch installed with my designed/printed Pi camera holder:
I spent 8 hours printing my tool tray yesterday, and the rim of the support structure under one section is just enough to tilt the tray a little so that it sits on an angle. I don't want to waste anymore filament to reprint it a 3rd time, so I'm leaving it. Hopefully, lesson learned.
I also learned that it's not as simple as just resizing things. I was doing that, and then half of my sketches and extrusions after that one would get screwed up.

https://media4.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTc5MGI3NjExdXQ2Z2R0dXMxdnJlY3dwdjZycG5pbXg3cXE[…]bnRlcm5hbF9naWZfYnlfaWQmY3Q9Zw/pQnuj5GeFmlR3wbA04/source.gif▾

I printed multiple arm lengths for the Pi camera mount, so I'm going to move it closer to the bed since this seems a little far, and a little too high.
l
Needed to mount a battery charger to the wall of my shop. Couple measurements, quick sketch and print, done.
n
I'm loving onshape. Still hate scaling, because it's not consistent for me (need to scale round holes and cylinders, but not the entire part). At least not yet. I haven't been able to dial in the exact scaling percentage.
l
Tinkercad on steroids.
n
Here's the original fixed mount I designed.
Decided I wanted more flexibility, so I redesigned it and printed multiple arms of different lengths.
l
You fall asleep to the hum of your printer??? 😂
n
haha, that's the guest bedroom. The fans on this thing are obnoxiously loud, and it seems like every upgrade sacrifices cooling power for noise. I may retrofit a ball bearing PC fan at some point, but for now I don't care because I close the door and walk away.
l
I've been down that road... Noctura doesn't really make 24v fans and good ones are hard to come by. I think I used a 12v buck converter and 12v fans on my old printer.
n
That's exactly what I plan on doing eventually.
l
Even replaced the steppers. By the time your done you could have just gotten the X1C. 😛
n
I don't see myself spending over a grand, honestly. Not sure I'd get the value. The P1S is probably where I'd land.
oof, the combo is barely less than the X1C. Either way, that's a thought for down the road.
Not sure what was going on with my Pi cam in the middle there.
Man, I’m really have a rough go with dimensional accuracy when it comes to the final print. I designed and printed a fish feeder stand for when I go on vacation, and despite the fact that I added 5-10mm where needed, clearances were extremely tight. Measuring dimensions in the slicer showed the same as onshape, so I think I almost need to build some sort of test design in onshape and then use the scaling tool to figure out what I need to do in the future. I should fix this design and print it again, but it was an 11 hour print and the end result does work.
Oh FFS, I'm the idiot here. I made two versions of the feeder stand and printed the wrong one, which explains the issue. 10 hours wasted... oof.
At the very least, that print showed that it was completely over-engineered, and should be simplified. So this is what's currently printing:
l
Did you build that one as a single part with multiple sketches or did you use multiple parts and make an assembly?
n
Single part with multiple sketches. I haven’t graduated to assemblies yet. :D
l
Same.
n
Works perfectly. Probably could have made the inner wall a little shorter so that the base sits on the frame of the tank, but it’s perfectly stable.
Made my first Thing, in case it actually helps somebody: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6455406
My wife told me that her razor keeps falling off the shower wall because of the suction cup losing suction. onshape and my 3D printer to the rescue. Octolapse:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDoVTNehoo0▾

HZdr5iP_d.webp
At some point, I'm going to remember to double check my measurements in onshape before I export the STL and print it. Spend nearly 10 hours printing a radon detector hanger yesterday only to find that I didn't account for enough space below the pipe I'm hanging it from and the top of the detector. Stupid mistake, really.
Somebody talk me out of getting a P1S with the combo unit...
s
do it! I have to live vicariously through this thread!
n
Gotta be honest, the 720p/.5fps webcam is holding me up. That's... pathetic.
I decided that the webcam issue wasn't a big enough issue to stop me, so I just bought a P1S Combo. Decided it wasn't worth another $500 or so for the X1C with AMS for my needs. Now let's see how long it takes my wife to notice the new printer...
l
You're going to love it.
n
Hope so. Now I get to spend 48 hours printing 4 filament spool holders since I use ELEGOO PLA (don't want to go the edge guard route).
l
So no AMS?
n
I did get the AMS. My ELEGOO PLA comes in cardboard spools, though, and I've read that they break down and cause issues in the AMS.
The grey PLA I have is dogshit, so I'm going to use it on these spools since I don't care about the end quality as much. https://makerworld.com/en/models/94644#profileId-101222
l
I rip the cardboard off and put them on the reusable spool they come with.
n
Does it actually come with a reusable spool?
I plan on having 4 colors in the AMS at all times, really.
l
I also made a silica holder like that.
They have the STL on their site for it I believe but mine came with one.
n
Yeah, I saw Bambu's official one on MakerWorld. FIgured this was better for me since it'll print faster and use less PLA.
and it was designed for ELEGOO spools, which I use exclusively.
I didn't feel like spending $12/spool on their site.
Which is kind of ironic given how much I just spent on the printer.
l
Yeah, the sides of the cardboard will peel off leaving the cardboard ring holding the filament. Take that and insert the plastic spool. Done.
n
Yep, what you did in your photo is what I plan on doing.
After a week of printing stuff for the printer and AMS itself, I'm finally at the point where I can print fun stuff. So far, I'm amazed at how fast this thing prints. Stuff that would have taken me 10 hours on the X2 now takes 2 hours or less. Multi-color prints looks great, but holy hell do they add time to the print. I printed my daughter's cat, and a single filament print would have been a little over an hour, while the two color print was just under 6 hours.
My only gripe is actually with the AMS. I had a lot of retraction issues, which forced me to print solutions for them. I think it's better now, but every once in a while the filament will get stuck in the edge of the spool thanks to how much the AMS pulls, and I guess the angle. I've tried to mitigate that with the AMS Saver kit on MakerWorld, but it still happens. You almost need some sort of floating guide to lift the filament up right at the top of the spool so it can never be pulled into the edges.
The webcam is just as bad as I thought it'd be, but it's a price I was willing to pay. Maybe I'll get lucky and Bambu will release an upgraded camera for the P1 line.
My latest build, a Father's Day gift for my dad. Printed the interior/wheels/trim with m 0.2mm hot end @ .06mm layer height, and holy hell is that thing detailed.
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s
nice
l
Really pushing your printer there. 🙂 My neighbor is big into model trains so I found some really cool models and made a few buildings for him.
n
Ohh, nice. 3D printers are a great way to build out something like that.
Also, tried PolyTerra PLA for the first time yesterday for a print for my daughter (don't ask, lol), and man does it print beautifully. 0.4mm nozzle/0.16mm layer height, dual color.
I guess I never posted this, but I also printed Storm - my first 'complex' multi-color print. Took forever, but the result was terrific again.
Had to make the badges black and yellow because the body was 5 colors with the red, and I couldn't just swap the PLA after one color finished since all other colors printed at all heights. Still looks good, though.
l
Bet that one had a ton of poop. 😄
n
Oh man, even with the profile that reduces it by 45%, it was massive. It actually backed up my poop chute collector and started overflowing onto the build plate!
I checked the print mid-way and manually removed it and removed the collector.
That forced me to change it up and print a poop chute that exited the printer and went straight down into a bin below the printer. Works much better.
l
Thats a pretty good setup. I'd steal your idea if mine wasn't on the bottom shelf.
No muffler on it?
n
Muffler?
l
s
Muffler? hardly knew her!
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Sorry, couldn't resist
n
My printer is in the spare bedroom, and honestly, it's not that loud. It's quieter than my old Aquila X2.
l
One of these was also a great addition. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6375012 This isn't the exact on I used but similar. Makes using external spools way easier.
n
Isn't that for the A1/AMS Lite?
l
Its just a 4 into 1. You'd put the AMS on one port and have 3 others to easily load "external" filament manually.
n
Ahhh. I take it that process is entirely manual during the print then?
l
Say I want to print TPU and its not loaded in the AMS, I just drop it in the dry box and load the filament manually by pushing it through the dry boxes ptfe tube. Don't have to crack open the AMS or disconnect anything.
n
Ohhh, so it's one or the other in this case. You're just unchecking AMS when you send the print
That's pretty neat
Rumor has it Bambu is releasing a new flagship soon. I swear to all that is holy, if they release some superior printer that's in the same price range as the current P1S, I'm going to be pissed
because I will buy it
And will sneak it into the room without my wife seeing
l
Start by covering the printer with a blanket now. When you replace it she will never know... 😂
n
lol, the room is filled with old stuffed animals, so I'll just put them on top of it. Hiding in plain sight.
I guess I'll print that muffler now that I have nothing else to print, lol
It was almost comical how the first 2 weeks of prints with this printer... were stuff for the printer.
l
Thats almost always the case with any printer. At least with the bambu your not going out and buying a PI and printing a case/mount.
n
I do have a Pi setup, with OctoPrint, etc. Built it for my X2.
Right now I use it for OctoEverywhere - which now supports Bambu. My P1S has no spaghetti detection, so this works perfectly for me. Integrates directly into Bambu's API.
l
Same for my old Prusa MK3. Now collecting dust in the closet. Sad...
In case you didn't know... https://github.com/greghesp/ha-bambulab
n
I've seen that, but Home Assistant can fuck right off
l
lol, bad experience?
n
Yeah, tried it for a few things, just never liked it.
This particular item, I didn't see a need for it, personally. The Handy app does a pretty good job.
I guess if you wanted to run LAN mode, this would make more sense.
s
or LANdon mode....
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n
Finally found a Wolverine model I thought was worth printing (and hand painting):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmUbotmWh3A▾

@Landon Winburn I broke down and repurposed my Pi4 for Home Assistant, after repeated issues with the Handy app notifying me of issues (and the lack of an automatic retry on things like AMS overload errors). I have that ha-bambulab integration enabled. Assuming you're running this, too, do you have any notifications setup for this? If so, got the YAML for it? Any chance you've been able to figure out how the hell to add a snapshot to them? I have spent hours looking into that, but am coming up short.
OctoEverywhere worked like a charm for this, but their notification limit of 4/day was a deal breaker, and I refuse to pay for another subscription service.
s
n
I'm not a fan of Kickstarter anything because there's a good chance you lose your investment (I know from experience). This seems like a very niche product. I guess if you were a small shop and wanted to design and print your own molds and use your own equipment, maybe this fits the bill... assuming it all works. I would never consider this for myself, though.
s
gotcha. Yeah, I get why you might not do Kickstarter. I have definitely been burned by some scammers, but most that fail have been honest attempts at bringing innovative devices to market. And I like to support people who are trying to bring something new to the world. I HAVE had many great returns, too, tho
n
For 3D printing, I am all in on Bambu now. I wouldn't even consider another brand at this point.
s
makes sense
n
Rumor has it that they're releasing a new flagship model this year. If it's just a larger format printer, which would be the most obvious route, I will be able to avoid it. But if it's a newer X1 with features I really want, I'll be upgrading.,
My latest print, a Xenomorph. Total print time was about 55 hours, and it stands about 20" tall. Sound on for full effect.
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Untitled_13.1.1.jpg
j
Nice! I am working on an iron man helmet now. will post pix once finished. I am thinking of printing some form of outdoor sculptures, like dragons, and mythical creatures. Any recommendations on UV protecting or sealing them for outdoor display?
n
Your guess is as good as mine there. That Xenomorph was only outside for the photo shoot, lol. I assume you're going to be using at least PETG for anything going outside, no? I've always read that ABS is probably the best bet.
That said, my wife and I have been looking for something for the front of the house for years - gargoyles, animals - something. Have yet to find anything we like outside of a 6' tall velociraptor that I was explicitly prohibited from buying. Now I wonder if I should try an ABS print and then find some sort of marble spray paint to go on top.
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l
For outdoor applications I've switched from PETG to ASA. UV resistant and has a higher print temperature. I needed to modify a skimmer for a pool I built. Designed this based on a photo of the original and its water tight and holding up great.
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n
Currently printing out Halloween coffins with different door designs. One area of this I hate is the lack of an easy way to cut/modify STLs. I wanted to cut the design out of the coffin door, and instead of being able to simply select the outline and cut the inside, I basically had to cut the lid 6 times, delete the middle, and assemble the leftover pieces. Tedious.
l
Yeah, I loved STLs and tinkercad until I found onshape. Now I hate STLs.
n
Maybe I just don't know how, but importing an STL into onshape, which basically just creates the part, and then drawing the outline and trying to remove via extrude doesn't work. Makes no sense.
l
I assume you watched the teaching tech video on it?
n
Yep, and many others
Well this is just dumb. Export STL from slicer, import into onshape. Export to STEP. Import STEP, now you can create a sketch and extrude/remove from the STEP.
Glad I spent 30 minutes doing the cut bullshit in Orca earlier
STL:
image.png
STEP:
l
Wait, what? Export from slicer, import into onshape, export from onshape, and reimport to onshape?
n
Yep, apparently it needs to be a step file to successfully extrude through
l
So import the STL into onshape, export as what?
n
Import the STL into onshape, then immediately export the part as a .STEP file
(under Format)
l
I'll give it a try but the model there still looks like its full of triangles.
n
Then import that step file back into a new document. So dumb.
It is, but I was able to extrude through them just fine, lol
image.png
I love onshape, but this should be easier.
If you want to check out the files yourself, search Public for cap ghost and make copies of them
I love my Bambu, but man I am not thrilled with their support. I can go days between responses, so the printer just sits idle. Started getting 'front cover fell off' errors yesterday... but it's not off, nor is it even being knocked ajar or anything. Tried a few tricks I saw online, like adding magnets behind the magnets on the front cover... nothing. Disconnected it and reseated it - and now I'm getting 'nozzle temperature is abnormal' errors. Amazing. I swap on my 0.2mm nozzle, and everything works fine. Back to the 0.4mm, errors again. Checked the resistance of the heater on both, and again the 0.4mm is bad. Sent all of this to Bambu, and their reply is "did you go through this wiki". My man, I literally just wrote out every single step that I took to troubleshoot the issues, all of which are in that very same wiki you linked. Did you even read it?!
s
Hey, do you guys have a site or sites that you recommend to download 3D printer files? I have a project in mind, bit don't want to start from scratch
l
thingiverse.com and yeggi.com are my top sites.
s
Cool. Thanks
l
printables.com is getting better as well. I usually start with thingiverse and if I can't find something there flip to yeggi. Yeggi is more of a search engine for all STL sites so you get a mix result of free/paid/etc.
n
I stick to makerworld.com since I have a Bambu printer, but Printables is my 2nd choice. Thangs.com will also search across multiple sites.
Bought one of those 12' skeletons at Home Depot, and had to replace a few connectors already. Got tired of paying more for shipping than the part, so I found some CAD designs of them online and printed them in PETG. First real test was today, as the crazy wind knocked him over, and both his arm and head flew off. The arm has one of my 3D printed connectors, and the head has the OEM. Guess which one survived? Bambu FTW. Printed out a new one for the head this afternoon.
va8q1cj_d.webpjl0x6o6_d.webp
I'm installing a hitch on my wife's SUV this week, and the one thing she didn't like was how it looked. So, she picked out an image online, and with a little Photoshop to break it up into layers, I converted it to two .svg files and created a hitch cover for her. Found the actual hitch shaft .stl on Thingiverse, so we'll see how this looks once installed. She did not like my idea of using my own middle finger for this.
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"Dad, I broke my eyelash [rake thingamagig], can you fix it?" I've been waiting for this moment!
t
I am really enjoying the 3D print hobby. My daughter sends me stuff all the time to print.
s
uh, now we're all going to send you stuff to print
t
🤣
s
You may already have seen this guy's channel, but he has some amazing builds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1ks0Vy98KI&t=27s▾

j
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n
I actually used onshape to design a wishing well for my front yard. This helped me put together a materials list, and also allowed me to print out hole templates. Here are my design photos.
Once I had the rings glued up, my wife and I looked over both design options, and funny enough chose the opposite route - aligned rings with no cedar shingles, instead using the 1x4 cedar plans as-is.
Those 3D printed hole templates made this so much more efficient. Every row I switched between the inner and outer holes to secure the rings together. Also helped with sizing my cuts quickly.
Since I know there are a number of us here, how do the rest of you feel about Bambu's upcoming firmware changes? Honestly, this has completely soured me on them as a company. Their printers are amazing, and I've recommended them to everyone in the past, but this is a step too far for me. The changes they made after the initial outrage didn't go far enough, and I'm at the point where I'm going to vote with my wallet - no more BL printers or filament. I'll keep my P1S on the firmware it currently sits at. If another vendor releases an X1C competitor that is proven to be in the same class, I'll make the switch. Sucks that I'll lose the RFID capability on filament, but ELEGOO is so much cheaper and the quality is top tier. And they finally make PLA with plastic spools. For the ones that still use cardboard, back to ripping the sides off and slipping on an empty Bambu spool. Thank you for coming to my Ted talk.
l
I think its much ado about nothing. It's been known that Bambu is a 'walled garden' and not fully open source. If open source is what you want, and you were considering the X1C - look at the Creality K2 Plus. I have been on the fence about getting the X1C, I just didn't like the smaller build volume. The K2 Plus is 350x350x350, has all the features of the Bambu, and has a heated chamber and hardened hot end so it can do all the advanced materials the X1C can do. Their AMS (nee CFS) even has a hygrometer built in, as well as works with cardboard spools. It even has a tensioner to keep pressure on the spools when they get light. Everything I've seen on it is that it's got equivalent or better quality as the X1C.
n
They were never open source, but closing off all direct API access and offering a half-assed solution that still breaks things like Home Assistant... that's not at all what I signed up for.
Yeah, the K2 Plus is on my list to look at. I want to see more reviews on it and give it some time. The Prusa Core One is interesting, but I'm not a fan of having no enclosure for multiple spools. and a limit of 5 is too severe for my use case.
Anycubic and Qibi have newer coreXY printers with AMS-like units, too.
In other news, got a new tool cart last weekend, and my first task was to design and 3D print organizers for everything.
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Bambu released their H2D today. Priced lower than I thought, though the bed size is disappointing for a larger printer (can't print using the full bed, not even with single color printing). https://bambulab.com/en/h2d The firmware issue from a few months ago is still a hard stop for me, so I guess I can thank them for saving me $2200.
t
It will be interesting to see what kind of bugs show up with the new printer. The AMS 2 Pro and AMS HT are nice touches. The continued reference to RFID tags definitely shows they want you using their filament.
Definitely the Apple eco system version for 3d printing
n
Yeah. I haven't had to purchase new filament in a while, and I'm still hard set on not giving them anymore money, personally. I'll go back to ELEGOO filament and will just use my existing Bambu spools.
t
I understand. I like ELEGOO's Rapid PETG filament. It prints well.
n

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYJNZ4euuFk▾

I found a typo in in the video on the H2D's screen, lol
s
Have any of you used the Creality Ender-3? I read a post that it was a great entry-level printer. And its around $300.
j
I have an Ender 3 v2 I bought during COVID. Haven't put too much time into it. It is a great entry level for PVA printing, but I'm wanting to do ABS printing, and it's not good for that. It's a bit fiddly to get aligned. I also didn't get an enclosure, which I regret. Lots of learning. Maybe pick on up off Marketplace.
s
thanks for the insight. I read another post last night where the majority of the people said that the Bambu A1 mini is a much better option than the Ender 3. Any thoughts on that?
j
I've read that too, but I'm not into it that much. I think Nick may have better knowledge around that.
n
I dunno if I'd go with the Mini just because of the crazy small build plate size. At the very least, a normal A1.
You may think the plate is large enough until you start printing... then you'll regret it. 🙂
My 256x256x256 build volume is sometimes too small. I've resorted to printing stuff at crazy angles at times to fit it, or designing parts that are a little smaller than I originally planned.
j
My son wants me to get a larger printer so I can directly print Cosplay armor. He is 20.
s
good food for thought. thanks!
n
I have worn this multiple times to mess with my kid and her friends
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j
I made an iron man helmet, but it warped bad when I primered it. Last cosplay print was the batman cowl for my cats.
n
For reference, the A1 mini plate isn't even big enough to print the gun safe insert I created. I'd have had to have printed it in two parts, which would work, but aesthetically... meh
l
For a value printer, I'd look at the Elegoo Centauri Carbon. Very close to Bambu quality prints, close to Bambu ease of use, but a lot cheaper and still open.
n
Yeah, the Centauri Carbon looks like a decent choice. I'm not giving Bambu anymore money, so if I wasn't already set, it'd be one of the printers I'd consider.
l
im just waiting for their filament management system to be released for multicolor ease
s
nice . I'll def take a look at it
n
Same, I really want to see what they do there. Bambu's AMS 2 Pro is actually a really nice upgrade. Sticking with my two, old AMS units, though.
I walked around the house yesterday looking for something to print until my wife mentioned that we need a flat pack (planters) to start some seeds. Ran upstairs and designed one in onshape and started printing 30 minutes later, lol.
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j
If you want to dip your toes in, hit up craigslist or marketplace. I nabbed a voxel ender clone for dirt cheap. You can sometimes find printers from people that picked up something, and then either upgraded, or are getting out of the hobby. This is one where you don't necessarily need to buy new. I am probably going to stay away from Bambu after their new firmware stuff. But I think my next one will be some large format with multiple filament types.
n
And all was fine until the auto refill setting decided that once my black PLA ran out it would replace it with blue, because that makes sense.
Video 2025-04-06 11-14-13-1.mp4
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Yeah, if you were close to me, I'd give you my Aquila X2 for free. It's an Ender v2 clone, and it prints very well (I have everything tuned nicely).
s
"it's a poor craftsman that blames his tools" j/k 🙂
j
But it made a perfect color switch, so that black and blue looks awesome.
l
hard to beat a corexy printer for 200 bucks brand new with the elegoo. The tech is advancing so fast, I think its worth buying new here to get the latest and greatest features to be able to print successfully quickly. If you're just wanting a hobby where all you do is print stuff FOR your printer, or work ON your printer, then used might be ok. I have a tevo tornado collecting dust I'd sell cheap because I hate it.
n
It does look awesome, but I'd have been pissed if this were something else that I wanted one color.
Yeah, CoreXY should be the only choice, IMO. It just does everything better.
s
I pre-ordered the Elegoo Centauri Carbon. I have a couple of months to make room for it...
n
Let us know how you like it once you start printing with it. The reviews I've seen on it have been mostly positive.
l
Have they announced an ams yet?
n
Not that I'm aware of. Honestly not sure what's taking them so long.
(their filament is still better than Bambu's, FWIW)
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