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project.plugins.withId seem to do the trick here

That’s the correct way to do it, avoiding issues of ordering or existence.

That's not the correct way. Look at the JavaDoc of

project.plugins

and you learn you should not use it. The correct way is

project.pluginManager.withPlugin

.

What's the difference?

That one is documented as "you shouldn't use this" and the other being the recommended replacement. Usage and effect wise, they are practically the same.